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Brilliant Givenchy show underscored designer Riccardo Tisci's talent
PARIS (AP) ' After John Galliano was sacked from his job as creative director of Dior, the fashion world was abuzz with rumors about who might replace him. One of the names that surfaced with most insistence was Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, whose dark, dangerous aesthetic had won him considerable critical praise and a devoted fan base.
Watching Tisci's tour-de-force spring-summer 2012 collection Sunday, you were reminded of the enormity of his gift and all the reasons why he'd be a leading contender for fashion's top job ' the coveted Dior post.
A (figuratively) heavyweight cast of top models, including Gisele Bundchen ' who rarely graces runways with her presence ' streaked down the catwalk in elaborate pant- and skirt-suits elevated from business staples into the realm of the extraordinary by tails, flouncy peplums and sculptural panels that cascaded down from the neckline.
There was a suit for every taste and body shape, with long jackets or shrunken jackets, second-skin pants, high-rise shorts or multilayered skirts with see-through paneling in tan, powder pink, khaki with leopard print detailing or in shimmering silver and gold sequins.
Skirt-suits are Dior's bread and butter, and though the technical virtuosity on display Sunday at Givenchy far outstripped what's required to make one of Dior's staple nip-waisted Bar jackets, the collection somehow felt like a kind of billboard for Tisci's skills.
While his S&M-infused aesthetic doesn't at first glance seem like an obvious fit with Dior's "jolie madame" style, Tisci's talent is so prodigious you can't help but feeling like he could do anything and everything.
Women's Wear Daily reported in August that Dior executives were negotiating a deal with Louis Vuitton's Marc Jacobs. But the months have dragged by without an appointment announcement, leading some to speculate that the Jacobs deal might have derailed.
If it has, Dior executives would do well to take another close look at Tisci.